Fes is Morocco’s oldest imperial city and its most immersive. The medina of Fes el-Bali is the largest car-free urban area in the world—a labyrinth of over 9,000 streets where donkeys are still the main mode of transport and craftsmen work with tools their ancestors used. To walk here is to step into a living museum. The air is thick with the smell of spices, leather from the ancient tanneries, and cedarwood from the mosques. Fes is intense, beautiful, and entirely unforgettable.